Fashion

There’s no better way to appreciate the beauty of Maria Grazia Chiuri’s latest collection for Dior than through the details of their making – revealed in a series of films and images of its couture miniatures this season.

Alessandro Michele’s carousel of awkward beauty, set to Maurice Ravel’s Bolero, turned an unexpectedly inward eye on the repetitive nature of fashion, one that seems to dress and undress itself ad nauseam.

Jonathan Anderson’s take on statement clothing reflected a maturing of the designer’s off-kilter signature.

Roksanda Ilinčić, a London Fashion Week favourite, showed a collection that cut through the noise of faux feminist drivel, even amidst the chaos of Storm Dennis.

The American designer’s runway show, with its Karole Armitage choreography as creative accompaniment, summoned up a longing for a bygone New York City – one that represents big lights and bigger dreams.

Stefano Pilati’s breathtaking collection of weightless tailoring quietly marked a departure in menswear, paving the way for the fluid tailoring, inspired much by the feminine, that we enjoy today.

The house of Versace is at its strongest when its women are sexy, in command, and have their beauty celebrated. Its fall collection used a brash palette of colours and textures to push that vision – and it’s one of the house’s strongest in recent times.

2054 Louis Vuitton, a new men’s line by Virgil Abloh, puts utility and technical performance at the front of its design.

The Spanish leather house is launching a limited edition, seasonal capsule collection inspired by the rich and folksy works of the renowned British ceramicist from the Arts & Crafts movement – dragons, cats, Dodo birds, and all.

Although all major brands helmed by successful designers, Coach 1941, Michael Kors, and Tom Ford’s Spring/Summer 2020 collections seemed awfully short on points of view for a new decade.

At Helmut Lang, the designers Mark Thomas and Thomas Cawson fed the hungry internet generation a healthy dose of 90s nostalgia, by way of the brand’s signature styles from the decade.

Longchamp’s Le Pliage is a fashion favourite and standby of millions around the world. Now, the Japanese design practice nendo is applying their genius touch to the bag and giving it, quite literally, new shapes.

This season’s edition of the world’s most important menswear trade show will see exciting presentations by guest designers and brands Givenchy and Sterling Ruby, as well as a menswear retrospective by Olivier Saillard to mark 30 years of Pitti Uomo.

The beloved Disney classic is being given a turn on luxury leather goods, courtesy of Loewe.

Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez have brought their runway show back to New York, and it proved to be a standout from the seasoned label amidst a crowded week.

Kris Van Assche’s first runway collection for the Fall/Winter 2019 season saw him deftly reinterpret and propose new ways of looking at the bootmaking house’s history and codes.

The textile and garment artist Shawna Wu is an intriguing new talent whose work boldly embodies and dissects such complications as faceted identities, cultural burdens, sustainability, and empathy. ISSUE Magazine mines her mind and emotions.

In an intimate, highly personal collection this season at London Fashion Week: Men’s, Charles Jeffrey demonstrated his evolution from an innocent Lost Boy into an emboldened young man.

Donatella Versace offered a reflection of masculinity to challenge menswear’s stereotypes in this Fall/Winter 2019 collection – ironically championing women above all else.

In a deceptively simple collection for the FW19 men’s season, Hussein Chalayan has offered an elegant answer to the question of what a man should be wearing in a time of change.

China and the Chinese are more than their stereotypes, which when well-intentioned involve red and the Zodiac, and when racist involve dog-eating and other tired insults.

The Italian designer is back with a moderately-priced collection of Berlin-inspired pieces in a bid to bring back good taste and refinement to fashion.

The simple two handle vertical tote – in all its function and ubiquity – is done up with artisanal craft and design as part of Loewe’s Salone del Mobile 2018 collection, elevating the everyday to the extraordinary.

Dubbed the ABC Dior service, the French house now allows you to have your own name or text-of-choice emblazoned across its new hit monogram Book totes.

The buzzy contemporary label from Hugo Boss is making its debut in town with a new standalone store.

For Spring/Summer 2019, Miuccia Prada showed a collection that evolved out of her last, espousing a range of brand classics and updating them for a more certain future.

The Marni designer has an intimate understanding of the eccentricities and artistic oddball tendencies of the brand – and made clothes to celebrate a woman in her creative element.

In Paris, Dries Van Noten, Haider Ackermann, and Issey Miyake prove that there still are spaces for slow, intellectual fashion that women (and men!) want to wear.

At LFW SS19, designers like Richard Quinn and Molly Goddard shoot to success, while established British names like Mary Katrantzou and Jonathan Anderson play the long game.

French heritage haute couture houses like Paco Rabanne, Courrèges, Guy Laroche, Paul Poiret and even Jean Patou are getting a second lease of life with new investors and creative talent.

Hedi Slimane is out of touch, and the collection he showed for the venerated house shit on and disgraced a legacy of feminine strength and intelligence.

The hotly awaited show turned out to be a snoozer with no direction, a deflating departure for the pillar collection of London fashion week.

Calvin Klein, Tom Ford, Coach, Proenza Schouler and Rodarte were some of the big names that returned to show at NYFW Spring/Summer 2019 – though not all them showed a return to form.

A new guard of designers and brands in New York – Monse, Sies Marjan, Vaquera, Self Portrait and Area – showed a vision of the future at the Spring/Summer 2019 collections.

The optimism and promise of spring came from Kate Spade, Longchamp, Boss, Carolina Herrera and Oscar de la Renta at the New York collections.

Differences were a source of beauty, excitement and energy at Prabal Gurung, Opening Ceremony, Pyer Moss and Chromat this Spring/Summer 2019 season.

About damn time! The legacy French watch and jewellery brand is adding its key styles to both sites’ permanent offerings

The Olsen twins’ luxury label is doing a deep dive into the world of menswear, starting with a full collection in the Fall 2018 season

Dior is letting the winds of fortune lead the design of its Rose des Vents fine jewellery collection, which is opening up a pop up in August

Marni is opening its Happy Market pop up in Singapore at ION Orchard for a limited time, stocking quirky lifestyle items and cute totes and baskets worth indulging in

There’s no more division between high fashion and streetwear in menswear now, as this season’s changing of the guard shows

In a daring move against convention and the commercial, Marc Jacobs put on a show richly inspired by couture’s halcyon in the 70s

Kim Jones looked toward the Christian Dior couture archives to deliver a modern rekindling of craft and tradition amidst his contemporary street sensibilities

Simon Porte Jacquemus’ first menswear collection was not the droid we were looking for

John Galliano's Spring/Summer 2019 collection for Maison Margiela is a step above regular fare – it's haute couture

My fruitless quest for a singular style identity and the elusiveness of a less-is-more philosophy

The Fall/Winter 2018 Louis Vuitton collection revealed Nicolas Ghesquiere’s masterplan for the brand and shone a truer light on the designer’s brilliance and influence.

If you’re looking to collect a little piece of Burberry under Christopher Bailey, this is the collection that will certainly be remembered as that Burberry collection. Here are the standout pieces to get right now, because...see-now-buy-now!

Thanks to Anthony Vaccarello's fabulous, sauced up creations for the storied French house – think legs, legs, legs for days

Christopher Bailey’s final collection for Burberry was a marvellous closing tune to one of modern fashion’s great stories.

Céline’s mammoth runway carry all might do just that.

How the designer at one of American fashion’s biggest brands is asking the right questions and making the right clothes for the times.